When our SUV first time
drive close to Apline on the road, my boys cannot help to claim: WOW! This is
the biggest civilization we’ve ever seen in a whole week.
If you have any particular supply is in needed and cannot find from gas stations or gift shops in the park or Terlingua, this desert town 110 miles away may be your last and mostly best shot. Apline is good including university, hospital, library, Holiday Inn, Hampton Inn, Quality Inn, small town center and local shops, Auto Zone, and even a “department store” Stage. Not to mention more choices for food and bars. Street arts on the building are great fun to explore with.
After four nights in safari tents and teepees, we begin to feel what’s a treat to have own bathroom and a roof. But, the campfires, the isolations, the by the edge of the universe starry night, all immediately, vanished.
There is a visitor center can provide you many info and help. It’s on the way to the Museum of the Big Bend, Fort Davis for hiking or to the famous astronomical research facility, the McDonald Observatory.
Marathon
Marathon is closer to the park than any other town in the region at just 42 miles. It is my first pick to stay but is totally sold out. So we do not get chance to explore it more, but at least pass by several times, and take brief breaks and try their local famous restaurant.
Their historic main street village anchored by the legendary Gage Hotel, the city center includes shops, restaurants, galleries, groceries. They also have a Marathon Historical Museum. Starting at the center of town, Post Road runs south for five miles to Post Park — the site of a former cavalry post known as Camp Peña Colorado in the late 1800s. With very little traffic and fabulous views, this stretch is ideal for running, walking and biking. Wildlife such as deer, javelinas, turkey, jack rabbits, quail and even an occasional fox can be seen in the early morning or around sunset.
12 Gage Restaurant is a jewel in the desert. It offers a refine menu including locally sourced wild game, beef, fowl, and fresh seafood. Nice wine list. It is impressive they even open during Thanksgiving night, and serve full menu plus a special holiday set menu.
Fort Davis
Fort Davis is one of the
best surviving examples of an Indian Wars' frontier military post in the
Southwest. At 5,050 feet, it is
the highest town in Texas. It is also on your way to the McDonald Observatory.
We go there
directly for warm up hiking in Davids Mountains State Park. The rocks in this area are very interesting, we even make road out of the GPS to get closer looks.
Tips & Tricks:
1. Plan early, make
reservations soon as possible. Not only where to stay with, but also
activities, like the McDonald Observatory, kayaking or rafting packages
2. Checkpoints operated by U.S. Customs and Border Protection are located on all north/south highways leading from the Big Bend area. Each vehicle traveling north is stopped at one of these checkpoints for a visual inspection and brief questions. We take passports for this trip.
3. You will drive in varies and tough road conditions, far and along. Four Wheel Drive higher vehicle SUV works good for us. Check tire condition before every departure.
4. Weather in desert varies dramatically. On windy evenings, temperatures can drop down into the 30s, only to creep into the 70s the next sunny afternoon. Layering is essential.
5. Make sure you have comfortable sneakers or boots that can withstand walking on gravel and lots and lots of dust. A pair of hiking shoes is the best choice for your “hardwalking” day. If you stay over tents or teepees, your bathroom/shower is walking distance. Closed toe like Crocs are much better than flip flops.
2. Checkpoints operated by U.S. Customs and Border Protection are located on all north/south highways leading from the Big Bend area. Each vehicle traveling north is stopped at one of these checkpoints for a visual inspection and brief questions. We take passports for this trip.
3. You will drive in varies and tough road conditions, far and along. Four Wheel Drive higher vehicle SUV works good for us. Check tire condition before every departure.
4. Weather in desert varies dramatically. On windy evenings, temperatures can drop down into the 30s, only to creep into the 70s the next sunny afternoon. Layering is essential.
5. Make sure you have comfortable sneakers or boots that can withstand walking on gravel and lots and lots of dust. A pair of hiking shoes is the best choice for your “hardwalking” day. If you stay over tents or teepees, your bathroom/shower is walking distance. Closed toe like Crocs are much better than flip flops.
 |
| My Best-Looking Shoes of the Year. Never proud of a pair so so dusty. |
6.
Plan ahead for
fuels and supplies. On top of all, water water water.
7.
The essentials you’ll need right away:
sunscreen, sunglasses, hat, hiking poles, flashlights/camp lights, I also like extra
wool hiking socks. Bandana has thousand useful ways, but a big silk scarf helps
too, in my nicer-looking way.
8.
Cell phone service is unreliable, most we’ve
been to shown No Service, so it’s best to plan and map out your daily stops in
advance. Use a real GPS rather than cell phone: road is simple most likely you
won’t get lost, but you will get fussy if only depend on your phone.
9.
Be aware of dangers like
loose rocks, cactus spines, insects, and reptiles. Please don’t get too much scared on
gusty winds and coyotes like us.
10. Be sure to have adequate
“Ready to Eat” foods. Fruits, nuts, energy bars, jerky, chocolates, canned
stuff. I take a small electric kettle, so we have big and hot BF to
begin everyday, hot cereal w/nuts, dried fruits, or ramen noodle with canned
meat/fish & salad. Our lunch is always simple because of hiking and a lot
of activities. I don’t eat much strong smell meaty food in the mountains, since
warnings for bears and mountain lions are posted on mostly of trails.
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| Once upon a time, my lunch after 3.5hour hiking... |
11. It’s very dry, especially we as from a city
always complain but used to high humidity: lip balm, rich moisturizer for
face, hands, body and hair, are all important. I have to do two facials
everyday: a sheet one in morning after shower, a leave-on over night.
 |
| My multi-tasking every desert morning: capture sun rise, shower, when hair is drying, cooking big hot breakfast. I do a sheet facial(could dry out within 10 minutes so please be careful), thickest moisturizer on lips, hands, and feet, coffee w/half hour daily reads. |
12. Take knife. And First-Aid Kit. Wherever you go, not leave in vehicle or luggage.
13. Park entry pay once and is good for a week. So it is not costly if lodging or traveling in or out the park everyday within.
14. There are many many many speeding police officers on the road, between park road to the 80mph speed limit part of I-10. Yes, it is 80 mph limit, so watch out, enjoy the trip safely, and don't bring back a ticket *_^
---- The End
