Marfa: Tough to get
to, tougher to explain
A small
desert city established in 1883, 98 miles away from the park, not
like many typical old towns’ Victorian cozy and warm, it is contemporary,
artistic and attracting creative
spirits.
In 1971, Donald Judd, the renowned minimalist
artist, moved to Marfa from New York City with the intention of permanently
installing his art. Marfa is also famous for its excellent soaring conditions
even hosting the World Soaring Championship in 1970. And sure, there are Marfa Lights and
Prada Marfa.
We catch the marvelous sunset along the highway on the way to this famous
town. The desert feels different around this area, maybe because of many
pictures and movie I’ve seen, they add up a lot of Isolationism into it. I
just want to fly my drone and view from top of the top to far and far.
It’s relatively not small, compare to several other towns we
visit later on. Ballroom Marfa is the biggest and most extensive gallery, hosting exhibits from
Dan Colen, Brigid McCaffrey, and Oskar Fischinger. Smaller galleries are also
worth a stop. However, we pick a day they call “Lazy
Monday” to tour around, most of galleries are closed. Or at least, open very late.
Don’t miss the historic route at classically beautiful Hotel Paisano, the film location for James
Dean’s final picture the “GIANT”, also starring Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor
and Dennis Hopper. There is a book store jointed to the lobby that is the
perfect size, great style, nice collections, a store I spent the most of time and
least of money in this year’s Black Friday week.
Down the block from the Paisano is the Hotel Saint George, a spot so modern you might think you’ve
traveled back to Soho while inside. Actually,
I feel Soho-desert-mixing in and out walk through this town. And there
is the Thunderbird, a marriage of
the Western and the contemporary, a sky blue–color motel on the town’s main
road. It comes with typewriters and a library of vinyl records.
Marfa’s beauty could be giant outdoor art displays, architect,
landscaping, balance and contrast, or one angle from the view of a yard. You
need to spend time and heart to wondering around, and not only to look, but
also to feel.
Not many people walk through the town though, so expect to be
the only person on the sidewalk. If you happen to be lucky and/or unlucky,
their police officer will show up at any minute in a truck and yell, I mean
really loud and not a welcome or patient way: Stay off the road! Pass the
railroad without stop! Get out of the road! Well, just follow. As student to a teacher, not tourist to local. Oh how I miss our big city officers raising
their hat and greeting, Ma’am….
About nine miles east of Marfa by a
widened shoulder on Highway 90 is the famous viewing spot for Marfa Lights of
west Texas. Over the years, it’s also been called as ghost lights, weird lights,
mystery lights, or Chinati lights. It has a sign to exit, and has red covered
lights for better picture and film result. We had a little excitement and quite
a talk with other viewers that night, you make friends when you catching not ordinary
things.
35 miles east to Marfa, Ii is a 30
minutes’ drive through the desert, however, is truly magical.
Near another little desert town call Valentine,
there is the famous Prada Marfa. (So do you get the hint? A Prada near
Valentine?!)
It has products, at least shoes (one piece) and
purses. Store is under well maintenance so is very clean in such a dusty
desert, there is even a 24 hours camera. They just never open the door and
sell. People put their love lock on the fence behind the store. It’s a piece of
fine unexpected art by our highway. The store is facing the east, so come here
for sunrise or sunset is a real beautiful view.
If you visit McDonald Observatory, especially for their “Star
Parties”, you may consider stay over night in Marfa. Because of the distance of
driving back, and the interesting visits the next day you may look around here.
A proper sit-down meal comes at Jett’s Grill, where portions are Texas-size but delicious.
Part of St. Geirge Hotel, LaVenture, or the Bar next to it,
could be a nice evening with good drinks and fine food. They serve two
different menus, one casual, one formal. Both are neat.
Food Shark, a Middle
Eastern food truck, is truly delicious. They even has Night Owls menu. Service
late is important when on travel.
Like
every of these towns, bars are very friendly and you can make friends and get
educated for tips on trips and stories around.
We
stay in safari tents while in Marfa. Not many choices during their peak of a
peak season, and it is truly a very unforgettable experience. Not only the dream-alike atmosphere,
simpleism décor, one and only artistic radio station, but also the outdoor tub
& shower under stars, stars stars stars, gusty winds in the middle of the
night sounds like ghosts and a power to crash me into pieces, and a best morning coffee I ever had.
