Monday, September 8, 2014

Perfume Log - Summer 2014 闻香识人

I love perfumes.

My collection are on miniatures though. It will definitely take me weeks, if not months, to document them.

So let's warm up with the items up-today on my closet vanity table. This is a test lab, a playground, and a Best & Must-Have. I loooove to spray them in hair, body, cloth, purse, scarves, bath towels, sheets, and the room. I'd better to but never did keep a notebook or so. It's always easy to remember their signature bottles ---- oh yes, the bottles, they are the beginning of the whole story.

香水对各人的意义和影响都会很是不同吧。 我欢喜香水,从芬芳的气息到璀璨的瓶子,更有人前背后相传的故事和人。你看那流光异彩琥珀琉璃的一瓶,辗转了多少花与果,时空和人物的链接,飘落在你的发梢和脉搏之上。她们就是有这样的特质:很少的能与你融为一体,唤起你难分彼此的眷念。更多的再努力,贴得再近用得再多,也是和己不相关的甚至全无交集的徒劳。明明是类似的花啊,调不同,韵就不对。而同样的香,在不同人,不同时,不同心境,自然又是不同。

所以啊,要不放弃的追寻,勇敢的尝试,反复的考量,更要有时时一见钟情的信心。

香水,不是情人,伴侣,又是什么哪。






My all time Top 5. I rotate my perfumes(or, have not much loyalty?) very often. But these five are must-keeps. They are my secure scents, inspiration scents,  power-up scents, or brighten-up scents. There were times I was so along and lonely, so frightened, tired, drowsy,  nervous; or thrilled, proud, happy-in-tears, on-top-of-world, or totally relaxed. Scents, there is at least a quite friend behind my ears, on my chest, accompanies me, the only me to deal all in a good-or-bad life.
如今的世道竞争激烈,干什么都讲个排行榜。 这是我(至今)的头五位:Tresor, Fantasia de Fleurs,  N°5, Happy & Joy. 我视她们如家人,就是在百货公司瞟见样品,或擦肩而过的陌生人飘来熟悉的基调,都会让我心头一暖。
 
 
 

Lancôme Tresor. My first ever "real" perfume. I spent most of my first big income on a tiny bottle while still working in university. Accompany with me ever since. It is a treasure among perfume creations, the exceptionally warm floral-oriental has a very fine and elegant composition made of rose, heliotrope, orris, apricot and iris. Tresor is floral, powdery and sweet. I wear it for most of my very memorable moments.
上大学的时候赚了第一次很累很辛苦的实习费,吃了客牛扒,买了一瓶小的Tresor,就还剩放假回家的路费了(如今看来,爱吃,爱香水,爱家是有迹可寻嘀)。我真的把她当财宝来看的。至今也还如此。最大最小瓶都要齐备才安心:她是一路陪伴我的迁徙和成长,甜美高贵忠诚的挚友。比真钻石还宝贵的,是无论何时何地,她总是:在那里。
 
 
 



Fantasia de Fleurs by Creed is an exceptional blend - a regal bouquet of the best Bulgarian roses and Florentine irises, from which Creed uniquely extracts the oil from the iris' roots, not the flower. Creed has created a legacy of unrivaled scents, both commissioned and worn by history’s greatest names. This one is a heady and ebullient floral bouquet created by the House of Creed for the legendary beauty Empress Elisabeth of Austria-Hungary, also referred to as Sissi, a European empress known for her beauty and style as well as her royal position.
For my first time trying Creed, on purpose I requested not to tell any names on bottles ---- this was a perfect fit, ever since. I was quite impressive by picking it: it IS the very one I wanted to try Creed, and it does not feel "old" or "aged" as I thought at all. It is, just so me.

我至今没有看过一部穿越剧,但早就完全成功的穿越过啦 -----
八十年代成长的女孩子,大概没有不喜欢“茜茜公主”的吧。她那极纯真的品质又极奢华的生活,美貌,和灿烂的笑,飞上枝头童话一般的故事,似乎都让人憧憬。我总是很记得她唤着 "Frank!"时的深情款款,更有她对papa和自己祖国的热爱。她在山坡上眺望家园,风拂过她长长的卷发.......
真实的她的长发几乎及地。每天侍女们用3小时为她梳头并洒满这款她专属的香氛。
几乎所有的Creed都可用添购的底油加强香水的持久力,唯独这款不用:她单纯而馥郁的花香里有萃取自花根的油,除了旅行,我很少用到她的小瓶装:不用补,也美美的香一整天。



 

 

 

 

N°5 by Chanel. The Eau de Toilette top notes are neroli, ylang-ylang, bergamot, amalfi lemon and aldehydes; middle notes are iris, jasmine, orris root, rose and lily-of-the-valley; base notes are vetiver, musk, sandalwood, patchouli, oak moss, amber, vanille and civetta.
Eau Premiere includes all original ingredients of N°5: rose absolute, jasmine, neroli and ylang-ylang. Ylang-ylang for this fragrance comes from the Comoro Islands, and Jasmine from Chanel-owned fields in Grasse.
I still need to find out why my husband only prefer the Eau de Toilette while cannot recognize eau Premiere at all.

我曾经很有些犹豫:太多人都熟悉或用上身的香水,多少会让我迟疑。可是事实就是如此,如果相配,大众情人又何妨。
不过Toilette就明显比Eau Premiere来得更合适我。每次用后者常会有说今天的香水好棒!而用前者时从不会这样赞,人常会看到我的特别之处,或是赞人而不是香水。


 

 
Clinique - Happy. A chic, modern, multi-layered floral with sparking, lingering fragrance of ruby red grapefruit, boysenberry bush flower and Hawaiian wedding flower. This light, youthful one is easy to layer up, and the name & color pick me up right away.  
这是年轻,活泼,又好彩头的。我在有点背,或是有点低的时候,就用她来翻盘!她好在有清新和圆融的品质,所以层层叠叠之后也总与其他香水相处融洽。

 
 


Joy by Jean Patou. In an attempt to create the most splendid perfume ever, Jean Patou doubled the quantities of ingredients required for Joy. No fewer than 10,000 jasmine flowers and 28 dozen roses are required to make just 1 ounce of Joy Parfum Luxe. This gesture, extravagant even by today's standards, revolutionized the way in which fragrances were created. It's fantastic notes: Bulgarian rose, tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, May rose, civet, musk.
也是好彩头的。注意她当然是为多少玫瑰多少茉莉的噱头。但这是我很钟情的组合,实在也和我的拍。她也是有年头的了,一样完全没有老的味道。
 
 
 

Floral scents are my all time fav. While Gucci by Gucci is perfect for a powerful Gucci woman, Flora is addressed at a sensual, young girl.
Top notes introduce citruses and peony, a heart is enriched with rose and osmanthus (Chinese flower which enchants with fruity-floral aromas with leather notes), while base notes encompass patchouli and sandalwood.
花香系是我最钟情的。纯粹的香和唯美,把人的心境都抚平了。
 
 
 
 

 
J’adore by Dior is a modern, glamorous, luminous fragrance. Its opulent, golden scent shimmers on skin like sunbeams. The classic and ambitions of this fragrance reflects in the bottle shaped like Greek amphora. J’adore presents a new conception of Dior feminity, a scent so new and so in line with Dior style at the same time – sweet but balmy, slightly sharp floral with fresh mandarin in the top; jasmine, plum, orchid and rose in the heart; and amaranth, musk and blackberry in the trail.
难得是每次见她,想到最多的反倒不是瓶子,是模特儿美伦美幻的长礼服。那惊鸿一瞥的颈饰,好长时间让我着迷。

 
 

 
A very interesting edition. FLORABOTANICA by Balenciaga attracts attention with its modern, attractive flacon and unusual ingredients. The notes listed as mint, carnation, hybrid rose, caladium leaves, amber and vetiver. It was announced seductive and its flowers will not be just beautiful, but also very dangerous. I felt in love with the contemporary bottle design at the first sign.
有性格,会犯规但又有品的一位。她不知道如何让我想起初夏的时分,生机勃勃的,冲动的,教条与青春矛盾统一的集合。

 
 

 

 
Continue on Floral fragrance. Live in Love by Oscar de la Renta. Top notes are hyacinth, galbanum, bergamot, lily-of-the-valley and orchid; middle notes are jasmine, african orange flower and rose; base notes are sandalwood, virginia cedar, woodsy notes, amber and musk.
好了,是位淑女。不过淡,等着各花入各眼。
 
 

 
The flower stopper! Cabotine de Gres. A light but lasting, easy to wear and at the same time tenacious perfume. Cabotine is the first perfume which contains ginger lily in its composition.
The top notes contain blackcurrant buds, pear, plum and corriander. The heart is composed of rose, tuberose, ylang-ylang, ginger lily, hyacinth, heliotrop, fresia, violet and iris. The base notes are cedarwood, vanilla, tonka bean, cybet, musk and amber.
晚上入眠前,一般都只喜欢比较单一而轻柔的花香。洒在枕上好入眠。
 
 
 

 The younger sis, Cabotine Rose. Top notes are black currant, mandarin orange, cherry blossom and pear; middle notes are peony, mimosa, tuberose, orange blossom, lily, pepper, jasmine and rose; base notes are sandalwood, musk, vetiver and frangipani.
玫瑰要香到正好:不能老气,又不能俗气。有的太淡有少了气势,有的太浓则添了妖艳。所以产地和基调就很重要。和茉莉衬的玫瑰比较容易让我喜欢上。
 
 
 
 


Gardenia by Elizabeth Taylor. Gardenia holds a special place in my heart. The spring scent, alike my youth ages, full of fragrance (sometime even a bit over-powered), pure, strong, selfish, short. Top notes are lily-of-the-valley and green leaves; middle notes are gardenia, peony and orchid; base notes are musk and carnation.
栀子是 我童年春季的宝贵记忆。她那种大鸣大放不知收敛行色匆匆的性格事隔多年依旧让人记忆犹新。她又是那样的单纯,雪白的映在绿叶丛中。要 寻到好的栀子调一如我喜欢的另一位:薰衣草 ----- 太容易象位老奶奶,不容易找到少女。
 
 

Vintage Bloom by Jessica Simpson is a delicate floral scent, inspired by the romantic moments and the scents of meadow flowers in the evening.
The top notes are lemon and Caipirinha lime zest. Peony and raspberry blossom form the heart, lying on the soft base of sandalwood and musk.
这一位轻飘飘的,自己幽幽然,洒在内衣的抽屉里可好了。

 
 


Voile de Jasmin Bvlgari. The new Bvlgari fragrance is a beautiful bouquet of jasmine. It enjoys the company of rose and lily of the valley, while in the base iris and musk repeat the sensual powdery trace of Bvlgari Pour Femme.
好清爽的佳人。是有婉约气质的。不过首饰出香水,应该marketing功效大过产品本身吧,所以往往都会当礼送:天天看到,哦,我是该去店里逛逛了.....
 
 

Unlike in kitchen, I always do not prefer any of strong or pure fruity fragrant on body or closet. And I never like to put any food (cucumber, pear, egg, yogurt etc.) on face or hair neither. No, no "food" in closet please. 
But for any with a tone as "cute", "young", "sweet", fruity is a good to blend in.And I even think to layer them up with some other bold piece could result a very interest impact.
Dolly Girl is miraculous creation of Anna Sui, in floral fruit composition. It is romantic and modeled with the dose of fantasy. Playful and eccentric, this perfume offers juicy fruit cocktail in its top notes made of bergamot, melon, apple, cinnamon, the notes of elaborated floral garden together with accords of magnolia, rose, lily-of-the-valley and jasmine.
What's draw your attention at first sign? To me, always the bottle. Cute! 
果香系。似乎提到可爱,就会偏甜。我一般是只限厨房和餐厅用食物香的:用西瓜味的洗手液,我以为留了粒瓜子在脸上;护手霜是红糖香草味儿的,我都担心晚上睡觉会引蚂蚁来!就是家居的香氛我也不太用浓重的食物香:一屋子香个没完,是让人一直饿,还是败了胃口?
所以可爱系的香水,我也常选配合了花调的。而且,陪小朋友们时用用,最适宜。
  
 
 

Too Too from Betsey Johnson. Anther cute bottle - girl dressed in black and pink ballet dress (the designer was a former ballerina)! It aims at young and lively girls, conceived as a fun, fresh and sparkling blend of floral and fruity aromas.
The sparkling and vivid composition opens with notes of mandarin, sweet passion fruit, ginger and strawberry. Its feminine and warm heart features Bulgarian rose and jasmine, rounded by the base of patchouli, sandalwood and vanilla.
这完全是为裙子买的香水。还有黑丝袜哦——我的天啊。

 
 
 

The original five Harajuku Lovers collection includes fragrances , Lil' Angel, Music, Baby and G. Baby is innocent and exciting, The heart is dominated by floral notes of orange blossom, Tiare flower, and jasmine petals, while the base caresses with white musk, soft wood, heliotrope, vanilla and violet.
I have many of the Harajuku perfume girls in mini. Get to share soon with you!
这一系列我喜欢。是为瓶子和故事。排了一窜。小时候完全不爱娃娃的人长老了,爱上了。下次把收集的Harajuku来排排队,一定好可爱。
 
 
 

Envy Me by Gucci. One after Envy, a fragrance for the egocentric and bold woman. The composition is fruity-floral with fresh and musky accords: spicy notes of litchi and pomegranate, the freshness of water jasmine, a harmony of sensual woods and musks. The top notes are pink peony and pink pepper, cassia, peach, mango; the heart brings litchi, pomegranate and pineapple; the base follows with sandalwood, white tea, Teakwood and white musk.  
 这可是超级甜心的一位。甜腻腻的,倒是让人满 舒服的。就是年轻啊。
 
 
 
 

Bebe by Bebe captivating with the notes of mango, sweet pea and tuberose as it opens. The heart is composed of black jasmine and rose that blossoms at night, while the base consists of sandalwood, musk and golden cedar.  
比较清淡呐,不太象服装的路线。倒让我小惊奇了一下。
 
 
 
 

I feel myself use "girly" scent always for kiddos' event or outing to do family dinner. A more lady's selection fits me better mostly. Here we are more bold(or normal-me) pieces.
F by Ferragamo by Salvatore Ferragamo. It introduces a floral breath of pure and intensive jasmine, intoxicating rose and orange blossom (neroli).
好啦,看看女人香。就是媚就是美,叫你不得不爱。我吃哪儿的菜一般就配哪儿的酒,所以穿他们家的鞋子有时候就配上这香气 ^^
 
 
 
 

 
Bvlgari pour Femme blends unique notes of Sambac jasmine tea, mimosa, and prelude rose. I just love the eau de parfum sprays come in glass bottles with gold metal tops. You can never shop enough Bvlgari in Gold :)
和她的珠宝一致:经典,端庄,矜持,优渥。好气质。

 
 

BLV by Bvlgari. The blue bottle with the cold accords of ginger, pure freshness of gorgeous wisteria and translucent musk are in harmony with the warm depth of sandalwood, feminine sweetness of flax flowers and softness of vanilla and acacia.
这也是让我小惊喜的。从颜色到瓶的厚薄,气息独立又内敛,时尚又摩登。
 
 




5th Avenue by Elizabeth Arden. 5th Avenue is a symbol of wealth, imagination that has turned into reality. This is a fragrance possesses a sense of style, intelligent, successful, elegant. The top notes are lilac, linden blossom, dewy magnolia, mandarin and bergamot. The heart notes are Bulgarian pink violet, ylang-ylang, jasmine, Indian tuberose, peach, carnation and nutmeg. The base is composed of amber, Tibetan musk, sandalwood, iris and vanilla.
也可以去哪儿就应个景。Bora Bora 了,5th Ave了,去Carribean and Hawaii 也都有好选。是一种和景致的小默契,不对人说的。旅行之前和之中与自己的小秘密。




Emporio Armani Remix is dedicated to disco era where there were no inhibitions, no boundaries, a wonderful companion in a colorful vortex of the crazy disco-music. It is a classic mix of floral notes along with luminous and fresh fruit. The flowers are harmonized with crisp fruity notes and sensual woody undertones. Top notes include pear sherbet, star anise and cranberry. At its heart, a wonderful bouquet composed of freesia, peony, magnolia and grassy clove. The base includes the notes of heliotrope, musk, cedar and sandalwood.
来看减龄香 ——— 这是年轻的心。很没有功利的,就是一心寻开心的时分。
 
 
 

CK IN2U expresses freedom and possibilities of young people to explore the world. The young and sexy juice is in the urban bottle, simple and attractive in its minimalist design. The composition opens with fresh pink grapefruit and bergamot with a note of red currant leaves. The interesting notes of sugar orchid and white cactus are in the heart. The base notes are: amber, red cedar and vanilla.
会带中性,灰和黑白的要个性又要低调的品质。我这个人穿的不太喜欢很trendy 的,居家也没选contemporary的,用香水对很in的一直同样不太和。原来风格就是如此,性格使然。
 
 
 
 

Daisy from Marc Jacobs is a sparkly floral-woody fragrance, It is devoted to someone sophisticated, seductive, dazzling and strives to simplicity. Daisy caresses with the fruity strawberry notes, intensive green aroma of violet leaf and sparkling spicy pink grapefruit. Its heart beats in floral rhythm, composed of silky and intoxicating gardenia, delicate violet, and jasmine petals. The powdery soft dry down is composed of white woods, vanilla and musk.
Daisy Black Edition is a luxury edition of the perfume Daisy, the formula remains the same. This is my limited trial bottle when it first available. Original top with its famous daisy flowers.
中后调特别。 能cool,也具亲和力。果然是做设计的出生。





Eternity Moment by Calvin Klein.  Continuing my modern & young line. It has fine and fresh floral aroma. The notes are: litchi, pomegranate blossom, water lily, Chinese pink peony, guava, musk and woody notes.
衬衫牛仔裤的时分,散步和骑脚踏车可好了。
 
 
 

Let's work on my strong and power line. Deep Red from Hugo Boss has fruity-floral aroma opens with notes of black currant, pear, tangerine and blood orange. The fresh and mouthwatering opening is followed by ginger leaves, freesia and hibiscus accords of the heart. Woodsy sensual finish is composed of sandalwood, Californian cedar, vanilla and musk. 
很有热忱的,果味儿与木味儿结合得天衣无缝。她有些清冽的气质。
 
 
 

Fan di Fendi by Fendi is a Floral Fruity, top notes are tangerine, black currant and pear; middle notes are jasmine, tuberose and rose; base notes are patchouli and leather.
为什么我就一开始觉得Fendi是意大利的牌子?!就是多出名的法国面包棍子的包包,也难改我的感受?全因为多年前,第一次用她一只老香,充满了意式的风情,搞得一路下来,印象始终难改。这一位倒是典型的法国的风貌,洒脱浪漫而又个性十足。春夏时节用,正正好。 
 
 
 

What is your "old" perfume? My list include Poison, Opium, and  Chloe original (Creed is the oldest, but not smell old to me). Full with character and old stories even when you first put them on. Chloe is a feminine and romantic perfume with an intensive floral aroma. Karl Lagerfeld launched it long time ago. Mixture of honeysuckle, orangle blossom, ylang-ylang, hyacinth, lilac, coconut, bergamot, aldeydes and juicy peach is at the top notes. The heart ticks in the rhythm of elegant jasmine, rose, narcissus, tuberose and carnation along with the oriss root, and the base adds up with oakmoss, sandalwood, amber, musk, cedar and benzoin.
人要有怀旧的物件。这就是半夜里看老书,或是猫在影院里翻看拷贝电影时最好的一只。奇怪的是就我自己用上去觉得了她的老,旁的人闻着都从不太理解我为什么这样的评价。
 
 
 

Natori by Natori. The graceful, sensual allure of the East and the modern elegance of the West discover an exquisite balance in the effortlessly sophisticated bottle. Natori in Japanese word for “highest form of art.”  
The bottle is a deep purple flacon inspired by the Lotus blossom – specifically the sensual silhouette of slowly unfolding petals. Made of shimmering violet-black glass there is a small clear window on the bottle façade to provide a glimpse into the golden heart of the fragrance.
The fragrance opens with an effervescent bouquet of fresh rose petals enriched by deep, dark plum notes. The heart is an exotic and alluring hybrid of ylang ylang, purple peony and night blooming jasmine. Slipping languidly over pulse points, black patchouli, amber and a hint of satin musk complete this mysterious and tantalizing fragrance.
夏或秋天,淅沥沥的一阵雨,偶尔人也要看着窗外发发呆。下雨天想到留得残荷听雨声,就会要记挂住这个瓶子。在深之处有更沉,在厚之中添添重。她的迷惑却是飘忽不定的,也让人跟着她的气息迟疑起来。



I finally feel this blog complete in structure. Include three most loved: food, shoes, and perfumes. Why it could be a bit hard to take the last step, as always.